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![]() Restored arches on the southeast side of Mission San José |
In addition
to the world-famous Alamo, located in the heart of downtown San Antonio,
four other eighteenth-century Spanish colonial missions have survived
the ravages of time and are located southeast of the downtown area at
various locations on the banks of the San Antonio River. These four missions
are named Concepción, San José de Aguayo, San Juan Capistrano, and Espada.
Like the Alamo, they have received an abundance of attention--either individually
or collectively--from various writers through the years.
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![]() Frontal view of Mission Concepción
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FREDERICK LAW OLMSTED: During his 1854 visit to Texas and San Antonio, Frederick Law Olmsted exhibited little interest in the missions individually, but he did devote some attention to them collectively in A Journey through Texas (1857): The Mission
of Concepción is not far from the town, upon the left of the river. Further
down are three others, San Juan, San José, and La Espada. On one of them
is said to have been visible, not long ago, the date, "1725." They are
in different stages of decay, but all are real ruins, beyond any connection
with the present--weird remains out of the silent past.(155)
What seems
to have made the greatest impact on Olmsted was not the appearance of
the mission ruins but rather the commitment and dedication of the "Spanish
fathers" who founded them in the first third of the eighteenth century: They pushed
off alone into the heart of a savage and unknown country, converted the
cruel brutes that occupied it, not only to nominal Christianity, but to
actual hard labor, and persuaded them to construct these ponderous but
rudely splendid edifices, serving, at the same time, for the glory of
the faith, and for the defense of the faithful. (154)
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![]() Surviving decorative stonework on the front entrance of Mission San José |
SYDNEY LANIER: Sydney Lanier was more favorably impressed by the missions than Olmsted had been two decades earlier. He especially liked Mission Concepción, which was occupied by a German family at that time, and he also admired Mission San José, located further down the San Antonio River. Lanier noted that religious services were still being regularly conducted at Mission San José, and he romantically reflected that one could
do worse things than to steal out here from town on some wonderfully calm
Sunday morning, and hear a mass, and dream back the century and a half
of strange, lonesome devout, hymn-haunted and Indian-haunted years that
have trailed past these walls. (243)
Lanier even
mentioned little Mission San Juan Capistrano, situated a few miles further
down the river, but he only observed that it was in a state of dilapidation.
If Lanier knew about the fifth mission, the even more distant Espada,
he did not include it in his discussion. |
![]() The famous "Rose Window" on the south side of Mission San José |
OSCAR WILDE: While he was in San Antonio during June 1882, Oscar Wilde visited Mission San José and seemed particularly impressed with its magnificent façade. He described the "door and window of the San Jose mission the finest he had seen in America" (Lewis and Smith 365). Of course, the window he was referring to was the famous Rose Window, located on the south side of the mission church, around which a variety of legends have circulated through the years; they focus principally on its supposed creator, Pedro Huizar. The appeal of this mission and other San Antonio landmarks remained with Wilde, even after he left the city, because he made the following comments a few days later to a reporter for the New Orleans Picayune: There
are in Texas two spots which gave me infinite pleasure. These are Galveston
and San Antonio. . . . It was in San Antonio, however, that I found more
to please me. . . . Those old Spanish churches, with their picturesque
remains and dome and their handsome carved stonework, standing amid the
verdure and sunshine of a Texas prairie, gave me a thrill of strange pleasure.
(Lewis and Smith 366)
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![]() Restored façade of Espada Mission
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STEPHEN CRANE: In 1895, Stephen Crane made some collective comments about the missions, much as Olmsted had done in 1857. Crane's observations, however, were decidedly more somber: Upon the
gently rolling plains the mission churches with their yellow stone towers
outlined upon the sky called with their bells at evening a multitude of
friars and meek Indians and gleaming soldiers to service in the shadows
before flaming candles, the solemn shrine, the slow-pacing, chanting priests.
And wicked and hopeless Indians, hearing these bells, scudded off into
the blue twilight of the prairie. (Crane 37)
Crane followed
up this imaginative reconstruction of mission life with a descriptive
observation that "the ruins of these missions are now besieged in the
valley south of the city by indomitable thickets of mesquite" (37). Because
Crane was seeing the missions before modern restoration took place, he
lamented their sad appearance: Time has
torn at these pale yellow structures and overturned walls and towers here
and there, defaced this and obliterated that. Relic hunters with their
singular rapacity have dragged down little saints from their niches and
pulled important stones from arches. They have performed offices of destruction
which the wind and the rain of the innumerable years were not capable.
They are part of the general scheme of attack by nature. (37)
As a pioneering
American Naturalist, Crane emphasized the central role that an
indifferent Nature had played in the destruction of the missions, in combination
with human destructiveness. He wondered who could fathom the ways of Nature,
who "thrusts her spear in the eye of Tradition and her agents feed on
his locks" (38). Yet Crane found hope in the realization that, despite
the ravages of nature and the destructive hand of man, "these portentous
monuments to the toil, the profound conviction of the fathers, remain
stolid and unyielding, with the bravery of stone, until it appears like
the last stand of an army" (38). |
![]() Frontal view of Mission San Juan Capistrano, including statue of missionary priest |
SANDRA CISNEROS: A century after Stephen Crane's reflections, Sandra Cisneros, in the short story "Bien Pretty," from Woman Hollering Creek and Other Stories (1991), had her first-person narrator allude to the establishment of the missions from a less sympathetic perspective: A month hadn't passed since I unpacked the van, but I'd already convinced myself that San Antonio was a mistake. I couldn't understand how any Spanish priest in his right mind decided to sit right down in the middle of nowhere and build a mission with no large body of water for miles. I'd always lived near the ocean. I felt landlocked and dusty. Light so white it left me dizzy, sun bleached as an onion. (143) |