LITERARY SAN ANTONIO

Mission San Antonio de Valero ("The Alamo," meaning "cottonwood") was originally established in 1718 at San Pedro Springs (San Pedro Park). It was moved further south to its present location in what is now downtown San Antonio, and the famous structure dates back to the middle of the eighteenth century. It was one of the original five missions situated along the banks of the San Antonio River but was secularized in 1793. It is best known, of course, for the Battle of the Alamo (1836), for which it earned the reputation as the cradle of Texas liberty. It should come as no surprise that many famous authors have included it in their comments on San Antonio.

The Alamo
"The Patriot Shrine of Texas"
Alamo Photo
The Alamo today
Like many other newcomers to San Antonio in 1854, Frederick Law Olmsted, who would later help design Central Park in New York City, made his way soon to “the square of the Alamo” (149), or Alamo Plaza. He devoted only a paragraph of A Journey Through Texas (1857) to describing the famous shrine of Texas freedom but was seeing it long before its restoration, although the U.S. Army had added the arched parapet which has turned the façade into a universally recognized icon:  

[The Alamo]is now within the town, and in extent, probably,  a mere wreck of its former grandeur.  It consists of a few  irregular stuccoed buildings, huddled against the old   church, in a large court surrounded by a rude wall; the  whole used as an arsenal by the U.S. quartermaster.  The  church-door opens on the square, and is meagerly decorated  by stucco mouldings, all hacked and battered in the battles  it has seen.  Since the heroic defense of Travis and his  handful of men in ‘36, it has been a monument, not so much  to faith as to courage. (155)
Early Alamo Photo
The Alamo as it appeared during the visits
by Olmsted and Lanier (DRT Library)
SYDNEY LANIER (1873):
 Concerning San Antonio’s most famous architectural landmark, the Alamo, Sydney Lanier had almost nothing descriptively to say.  This omission is not really surprising, considering the fact that, while the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers had already--as one historian anachronistically put it--“taco-belled” the old ruin by 1850, the structure was being used as a supply depot until Fort Sam Houston was built at its present location in 1876.

Whitman Photo
Walt Whitman (Image credit: AccuNet/AP)
WALT WHITMAN (Leaves of Grass, 1881 edition):
 Although Walt Whitman never visited Texas, he knew about the Alamo and alluded to it, along with Goliad, in Section 34 of his famous poem “Song of Myself”:


 Now I tell what I knew in Texas in my early youth,

 (I tell not the fall of the Alamo,

 Not one escaped to tell the fall of Alamo,

 The hundred and fifty are dumb yet at Alamo),

Tis the tale of the murder in cold blood of four hundred
and twelve young men
[Goliad].
Wilde Portrait
Oscar Wilde (Courtesy of Oscariana)

OSCAR WILDE (1882):
 During his American lecture tour (1882), Oscar Wilde visited San Antonio in the month of June and pronounced the Alamo a noble structure.  He used the word "monstrous" in lamenting that it was not better preserved (Lewis and Smith 365).
Crane Photo
Stephen Crane

STEPHEN CRANE (1895): Stephen Crane was enchanted with the Alamo, which for him, had become "the patriot shrine of Texas." In fact, by 1895 the Alamo had already become so famous that Crane exhibited a little reluctance at giving it so much attention in his essay on San Antonio, which he appropriately titled, "Patriot Shrine of Texas":

It is something of a habit among the newspaper men and others who write here to say: "Well, there's a good market for Alamo stuff, now!" Or perhaps they say: "Too bad! Alamo stuff isn't going very strong now." Literary aspirants of the locality, as soon as they finish writing about Her Eyes, begin on the Alamo. (Crane 38)

In spite of the Alamo's prominence among popular writers in Crane's day, Crane insisted that "it remains the greatest memorial to courage which civilization has allowed to stand" (38), and he launched into a six-paragraph summary of the decisive battle which took place there in March 1836.

Gazebo on Alamo Plaza
Gazebo on Alamo Plaza

Alamo Facade

Front entrance to the Alamo, viewed from the side

O. HENRY (1895): The area immediately in front of the Alamo is called the Alamo Plaza, which, along with Main Plaza and the Military Plaza further west, make up three of the most historic sites in downtown San Antonio. In the short story "The Enchanted Kiss," which is set exclusively in San Antonio, O. Henry imaginatively reconstructed the Plaza as it might have appeared before the events of the story take place:

A few years before, their nightly encampments upon the historic Alamo Plaza, in the heart of the city, had been a carnival, a saturnalia that was renowned throughout the land. Then the caterers numbered hundreds; the patrons thousands. Drawn by the coquettish señoritas, the music of the weird Spanish minstrels, and the strange piquant dishes served at a hundred competing tables, crowds thronged the Alamo Plaza all night. Travellers, rancheros, family parties, gay gasconading rounders, sight-seers and prowlers of polyglot, owlish San Antone mingled there at the centre of the city's fun and frolic. The popping corks, pistols, and questions; the glitter of eyes, jewels, and daggers; the ring of laughter and coin--these were the order of the night. (Complete Works, 1: 483)

K. A. Porter Sculpture
Katherine Anne Porter Statue (©1999 SeaWorld of Texas, Inc. All rights reserved)

KATHERINE ANNE PORTER (1903): Katherine Anne Porter spent several months in San Antonio when her family moved there from Kyle, a farming village located about fifty miles north of San Antonio near San Marcos. While living in San Antonio as a young girl, she attended the Thomas School near Woodlawn Lake on the west side of town, near where her family rented an 1880's style house from a relative. According to her biographer, Joan Givner, her love of Mexico originated from her stay in San Antonio, when it was full of political exiles from Mexico. During this time, "The Alamo was a ruin which anyone could have bought (Texas patriot Clara Driscoll pledged her fortune to buy a thirty-day option on it), and Porter remembered it as a place for picnicking" (Givner 79).

Frost Photo
Photo of Robert Frost that fromerly hung in Rosengren's Book Store (San Antonio Express-News)

Frost Rent House Photo

House at 113 E. Norwood Ct., which Frost rented during winter of 1936-1937

ROBERT FROST (1922, 1937): Robert Frost made his first lecture tour to Texas in 1922, which included Ft. Worth, Dallas, Waco, Temple, Austin, and San Antonio. His interest in San Antonio and the Alamo can be seen in a letter addressed in November 1927 to Leonidas W. Payne, Chair of the English Department at the University of Texas. The poet observed,"Some year you and Armstrong [A.J. Armstrong at Baylor University] must ask me back to the Alamo and San Jacinto" (Selected Letters 345). Perhaps the slow-paced life which Frost had alluded to in an earlier letter to Payne (January 1925) was partly responsible for his return to San Antonio during 1936-1937. Coming to San Antonio with the idea of enjoying greater solitude than wintering grounds such as Florida and Southern California and of escaping the ice and snow in New England, Frost happily reported, "I am deep in Texas history and dont want to be bothered by any but the ghosts of Goliad and the Alamo" (Selected Letters 437).

 

Steinbeck Photo
John Steinbeck (Image credit: AccuNet/AP)

JOHN STEINBECK: When John Steinbeck wrote Travels with Charley in Search of America (1962), he devoted a couple of chapters to his sojourn across Texas. While he did not specifically record a visit to San Antonio, he did mention its most famous shrine by writing, "Again–the glorious defense to the death of the Alamo against the hordes of Santa Anna is a fact. The brave bands of Texans did indeed wrest their liberty from Mexico, and freedom, liberty, are holy words" (202).
Alamo Acequia Photo
Acequia located on Alamo grounds

Alamo Grounds Photo
Alamo grounds at the rear of the shrine

SANDRA CISNEROS: In her collection of short fiction,Woman Hollering Creek and Other Stories (1991), Sandra Cisneros has included a short story called "Remember the Alamo." The ironic title, which echoes the avenging battle cry of the Texas patriots at San Jacinto in 1836, has nothing to do with the historic events which occurred in either place but rather introduces a deluded male dancer who describes himself in the following terms:

But I'm not Rudy when I perform. I mean, I'm not Rudy Cantú from Falfurrias anymore. I'm Tristán. Every Thursday night at the Travisty. Behind the Alamo, you can't miss it. One-man show, girl. Flamenco, salsa, tango, fandango, merengue, cumbia, cha-cha-chá. Don't forget. The Travisty. Remember the Alamo. (63)

This juxtaposition of the patriotic expression, "Remember the Alamo," with the ambivalent narrator Rudy-Tristán and the name of the night club, "The Travisty," suggests a bit of postmodernist satire directed at one of Texas' most sacred shrines from a Latina perspective. As such, it forms quite a contrast to earlier, more earnest depictions of the famous landmark.



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