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![]() Commerce Street Bridge from the river level |
Next to the Alamo, San Antonio’s
most famous attraction is the San Antonio River, which winds its way through
the downtown area with the help of some manmade channels. Of the
numerous bridges which cross its narrow banks, the most celebrated of
all is the Commerce Street Bridge, which crosses it in the vicinity of
Losoya and Alamo Streets. It should come as no surprise that both
the River and the Bridge have received ample attention from literary celebrities
throughout the years.
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![]() An early twentieth-century view of the bridge(San Antonio Express-News) |
FREDERICK LAW OLMSTED:
As Frederick Law Olmsted
rode into the outskirts of San Antonio in 1854, he seemed unimpressed by
the “limitless grass and thorny bushes,” but by the time he reached the
Commerce Street Bridge located near the middle of downtown, he became more
expansive--and eloquent--in his description:
We descend to the bridge, which is close down upon the water, as the river, owing to its particular source, never varies in height or temperature. We irresistibly stop to examine it, we are so struck with its beauty. It is of a rich blue and as clear as a crystal, flowing rapidly but noiselessly over the pebbles and between reedy banks. One could lean for hours over the bridge-rail. (148-49) |
![]() Commerce Street Bridge plaque |
SYDNEY
LANIER:
In “San Antonio de Bexar”
(1873) Sydney Lanier expressed his fascination with the trilingual signboard
posted at the Commerce Street Bridge, because it apparently summed up for
him the nature of the three prominent ethnic groups in the specific wording
of the sign, which read:
Walk your horse over
the bridge, or you will be fined.
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![]() Early photo of Commerce Street Bridge |
From
Lanier’s perspective as a nineteenth-century Southern writer, the Anglo-American’s
concern is money, so he is threatened with a fine, while for the “law-abiding
Teuton” (234) it is enough to know that riding one’s horse across the bridge
is forbidden. In contrast, the Spanish speaker’s injunction is fear
of the law, a more negative implication suggesting the fear of being punished,
perhaps implying Lanier’s prejudicial attitude toward the Hispanic population.
In a later passage from “San Antonio de Bexar” Lanier reflected more nostalgically
on the popular river crossing:
One may take one’s stand on the Commerce Street Bridge and involve oneself in the life that goes by this way and that. Yonder comes a long train of enormous blue-bodied, canvas-covered wagons, built high and square in the stern, much like a fleet of Dutch galleons, and lumbering in a pondering way that suggests cargoes of silver and gold. (244) |
![]() San Antonio River, viewed from Commerce Street Bridge |
The
San Antonio River, with its famous River Walk, has become one of the most
popular tourist attractions in Texas, but even in 1873 the stream had its
picturesque appeal. Lanier made this point clear in his description
of the River:
Its water is usually
of a lovely milky-green. The
stranger strolling
on a mild summer day often finds
himself suddenly on
a bridge, and is half startled with the winding vista
of sweet lawns running down to the
water, of the weeping-willows
kissing the surface, of
summer-houses on its
banks, and of the swift yet
smooth-shining stream
meandering this way and that. (240)
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![]() Augusta Street Bridge, one of the few remaining iron bridges from the time of   O. Henry's visit
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O. HENRY : In O. Henry’s short story “A Fog in Santone” (1912) a suicidal tuberculosis patient named Goodall buys a packet of morphine grains from a druggist. After completing his purchase, Goodall wanders out into the late-night fog and pauses upon “a little iron bridge, one of a score or more in the heart of the city, under which the small tortuous river flows” (Rolling Stones 101). The winding doubling streets, leading nowhere, bewildered him. And there was a little river, crooked as a pot-hook, that crawled through the middle of the town, crossed by a hundred little bridges so nearly alike that they got on Curly’s nerves. (Complete Works, 1:174) |
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GRAHAM
GREENE:
Like several other literary
visitors to San Antonio, Graham Greene encountered the San Antonio River
when he passed through San Antonio in 1938, and he described it in Another
Mexico (The Lawless Roads) as being “wound cunningly through the town like
a pattern on a valentine (does it make a heart?) with little waterfalls
and ferny banks” (18). For Greene it seemed to circumscribe an Edenic
refuge that excluded the world of reality. “Where,” he asked, “loitering
on a bridge above the little tamed river, was there any sign of that ‘terrible
original calamity’ which [Cardinal] Newman perceived everywhere? This--during
the day--was the perfect ivory tower” (18).
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![]() Two more views of the San Antonio River, much as Greene and Gunther described it |
JOHN
GUNTHER: John Gunther’s monumental description of the American scene, Inside U.S.A (1947), pays special homage to San Antonio and its river: San Antonio . . . is, next to San Francisco, New Orleans, and possibly Boston, the most colorful, the most ’romantic’city in America. . . . Winding through its heart is a stream, terraced and banked with green, seemingly below the level of the city proper, like an iridescent trench; you slip along in a Venetian gondola that brushes against the roots of concrete skyscrapers. The gulf wind makes the nights cool, even in midsummer, and flickering behind a web of branches are a thousand fireflies. . . . But along the river banks Mexican girls (in American slacks) flirt vividly, and boys wade in the waterfall for pennies, and underneath every culvert, at each stage and boat stand, are the lovemakers.(832) |
![]() Tower of the Americas, viewed from extension of San Antonio River constructed for Hemisfair(1968) |
LARRY
MCMURTRY: By the time Larry McMurtry arrived on the banks of the San Antonio River at the eve of the 1968 Hemisfair, the place had not lost its appealing ambience, as he points out in a passage from In a Narrow Grave: By nine the
next morning I was in San Antonio, the one
truly lovely city
in the state. . . . I walked by the San
Antonio River awhile
and had breakfast at a cafe by the
waterside, only a
few blocks from the Alamo and over to
the little square
where sometimes the friendly old bums
of O. Henry still
gather on winter mornings to take the sun.
(83)
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